There are food debates that divide cities. Chicago versus New York pizza. Carolina versus Texas BBQ.
But there is one food debate that divides an entire region, and most of the country has never even heard of it.
Let’s talk about Cincinnati chili.
Last month, when we stopped at Jungle Jim’s International Market in Cincinnati, we picked up three cans of Cincinnati chili for a very specific reason: an official Snack Society taste test. If you haven’t listened to the Jungle Jim’s episode yet, add that to your playlist, because that stop is a whole side quest in itself.
For this tasting, we gathered four adults, an unreasonable amount of shredded cheddar cheese, and three distinct Cincinnati chili brands: Skyline, Gold Star, and Worthmore.
But before we get to the results, we need to clear something up.
If you’re picturing a bowl of thick, hearty Texas-style chili, stop right there.
You need to completely clear that image from your head.
What Is Cincinnati Chili?
Cincinnati chili is not chili in the traditional sense. And Cincinnatians will tell you that loudly and proudly.
It was created in 1922 by two Greek immigrant brothers, Tom and John Kiradjieff, who fled ethnic violence following the Balkan Wars. They opened a small hot dog stand next to a burlesque theater called the Empress and began serving a spiced meat sauce as a topping.
That sauce eventually became known as Cincinnati chili.
Here’s what makes the story fascinating: Cincinnati chili isn’t descended from Texas chili at all. It’s rooted in a Greek dish called pastitsio, layered pasta, cheese, and meat sauce seasoned with cinnamon, allspice, and clove. In other words, it’s a Mediterranean-spiced meat sauce that ended up being called “chili” because that was the closest American reference point at the time.
Learning that changed everything for me.
When I stopped trying to evaluate it as “chili” and started thinking of it as a Greek-inspired meat sauce, it suddenly made sense.
And one more important note: despite what you may have heard, Cincinnati chili does not contain chocolate. That rumor started decades ago when a food writer printed a recipe with chocolate in it, assuming she had cracked the secret. The internet did the rest. The sweetness comes from cinnamon, allspice, and nutmeg, not cocoa.
How to Order Cincinnati Chili (The Ways Explained)
Before you can understand Cincinnati chili, you need to understand how it’s ordered.
Because it has its own language.
Orders are called “Ways,” and they build from the base up:
- A 2-way is chili over spaghetti.
- A 3-way adds a generous mound of shredded cheddar cheese (this is the most popular version and honestly the one that makes everything click).
- A 4-way adds either onions or beans.
- A 5-way includes chili, spaghetti, cheese, onions, and beans.
Technically, there’s a 1-way, just the chili by itself, but from what I understand, no one actually orders it that way.
And here’s a rule Cincinnatians feel strongly about: you do not twirl the spaghetti. You cut it. The goal is to get chili, cheese, and pasta in every single bite. Twirling ruins the ratio.
Oyster crackers and a thin, vinegary hot sauce are common additions.
It’s a system. And the city takes it seriously.
The Contenders: Skyline vs. Gold Star vs. Worthmore
For our taste test, we selected three brands representing different corners of Cincinnati chili history.
Skyline Chili
Founded in 1949 by Nicholas Lambrinides, Skyline is the most recognizable name in Cincinnati chili. Lambrinides was a Greek immigrant who had worked at the original Empress Chili before opening his own restaurant.
The name reportedly comes from the view of the Cincinnati skyline from his first location, though his family says it may have been inspired by a skylight. Either way, it stuck.
Skyline’s recipe has remained unchanged since Lambrinides’ death in 1962. According to his family, he always insisted, “Don’t change a thing.”
Skyline is known for being sweeter and smoother, with a more pronounced cinnamon-forward flavor profile.
Gold Star Chili
Gold Star Chili was founded in the 1960s by four immigrant brothers from Jordan. They originally purchased a restaurant called Hamburger Heaven from a former Empress employee. When they realized their chili was outselling their burgers, they pivoted, renaming the restaurant Gold Star Chili.
Gold Star’s version is generally considered spicier and more savory than Skyline. It has a bolder, slightly less sweet profile.
Cincinnati residents have strong opinions about which brand is superior.
Very strong opinions.
Worthmore
Worthmore is the wildcard.
The company dates back to the 1920s when Cincinnati butcher Phil Hock began selling his family’s mock turtle soup at his meat shop. The soup became so popular that he transitioned entirely into prepared foods and eventually moved into canning.
At some point, Cincinnati chili joined the lineup.
Unlike Skyline and Gold Star, Worthmore is retail-only. There is no Worthmore restaurant. You can only buy it in a can.
We found it at Jungle Jim’s and immediately knew it had to be part of the test.
The Official Snack Society Taste Test
Let me say this upfront: I am a meat-in-my-chili person. I like it thick. I like it hearty.
Cincinnati chili is none of those things.
What it actually is, and I mean this as a compliment now that I’ve adjusted my expectations, is a meat sauce. A well-seasoned, Mediterranean-spiced meat sauce that happens to be spooned over pasta and buried under cheese.
It honestly reminded me a little of the Rochester meat sauce served on garbage plates.
Once I let go of what I thought Cincinnati chili should be, I started to appreciate what it actually is.
Skyline was the group favorite. It had the most distinctive flavor, the warm sweetness of the cinnamon-and-spice blend that makes it unmistakably Cincinnati chili.
Gold Star was a close second. It was bolder, slightly spicier, and had a bit more savory depth.
Worthmore, however, did not win us over. It was thicker than the others, which I appreciated in theory, but the flavor just didn’t fully commit to the personality of Cincinnati chili. No one went back for seconds.
And honestly? Finding a dark horse that doesn’t win is just as satisfying as discovering a hidden gem.
Why Cincinnati Chili Works
What I love most about Cincinnati chili is that it never tried to be anything other than what it is.
It didn’t compete with Texas chili. It didn’t conform to expectations. Two immigrant brothers brought a piece of their culinary heritage to a hot dog stand in 1922, and a city embraced it.
Cincinnati chili is unapologetically itself.
And I love that about it.
